THE TRAVELLING ARCHITECT: THE ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

This April, my family visited the Algarve in Portugal. Travelling in the off-season proved a very rewarding journey, as we were able to visit museums, restaurants and beaches without the crowds. We stayed in a small house in the hills north of the coastline and woke up to the sweet aroma of flowering orange trees every morning. Our day trips allowed us a glimpse into the history and beauty of this area.

All photos below can be credited to my husband, Angelo.

IN THE COUNTRYSIDE OF THE ALGARVE

The drive into the hills brought us past cork trees harvested every 7 years, past old wells long abandoned and past pastures dotted with shepherds’ huts. People in the fields were invariably older, the younger generations having moved to the cities.

ESTOI

The tourist industry has an interesting relationship with the government, who subsidizes the renovations to historical monuments by hotel and restaurant owners in exchange for the public’s access to the treasured palaces and castles. This pousada in Estoi houses its restaurant and public rooms in the old Palacio de Estoi, while the rooms and pool terrace are in a modern, private wing.

SANTA LUZIA

Historically a thriving fishing village, Santa Luzia still has a small fishing community, but is mostly known for its beautiful beaches. An anchor graveyard commemorates the old vessels that used to provide the main food and means of living for the community.

TAVIRA

This town shows evidence of its Phoenician, Roman, Moorish and Christian roots. The 1755 earthquake that decimated many buildings in the Algarve also created areas of devastation here and these have been rebuilt with many beautiful 18th century buildings. The museum shows a modern take on the vernacular roofing materials of wood, cane and ceramic tile.

THE ROMANS IN THE ALGARVE

In Milreu, a large Roman residential complex brings light to the life of early Roman settlers here: a system of hot and cold baths, saunas, areas for collecting fruit and vegetables, for making wine and olive oil, a chapel, and quarters for the workers who toiled the land.
In Sao Bras, a Roman road and fortress walls have been unearthed and today create a beautiful walk out of town.

CASTRO MARIM

Near the border to Spain, the town of Castro Marim was once a port town important in the defence of the Algarve and in the trade of goods. The castle of Castro Marim dates from the 10th to the 12th century. The fortress of Sao Sebastiao, on a neighboring hill, replaced the castle in the 17th century.

SAO BRAS

This city was historically known for its cork production. A museum highlights some of the basic technologies used in the 1700s – a donkey-driven water-collection system and the many types of carriages used to bring goods and services to and from town.

“In character, in manner, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity.”
-Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

A bientôt,
Karin